![]() The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. This van does not have alarm system, horn blowning and head lights flashing, Just the key passlock system. My problem all started with a spare key with a magnetic tag on the same key ring. The pickup sensor is just below key lock cylinder very close to the key entrance. I also found in a manual, if a magnet is placed near passlock sensor it will cause vehicle control module to lockout mode and turn on security light, My light did not Gas pedal cable and back towards steering wheel, It is sort of hide, Passlock module is located under dash, right side of steering column, just above Still with module removed started and died 3 times. Let it set overnight and tried again next day. With passlock module removed it would start and die as before. ![]() I removed passlock module.Īnd scanner read P1626 Theft Deterrant System Fuel Enable Circuit. No codes on OBD2 scanner and security light off.Īfter checking everything trying to find the problem. Run for 10 to 30 seconds and die, it would start right back and drive ok until I stopped for over 10 minutes and it would do it all over again, start and die, start and drive ok. I have a 2000 Express conversion van 5.7 engine, It would start and I DO have a vacuume leak somewhere, gotta pull the file cabinet and get the dog house out to search, can't hear it fron under the hood.maybe that is dinking with the system? I think I see the resister on the blower housing, and checked the plug, all loks peachy keen and probably new being as it was a wreck. Going from HI to next down and BACK does seem to kicjk it back up again in less time then NOT fiddling with it. Fiddlin with the knob from MAX to AC ,no real diff. Shopping for them now ( about 106 from dealer).īut the rub is now, my fan (on high) will run fine for a few mins, then seem to fade out, then back OK again.I tried the manly fix or smackin the dash.no joy. recharged the AC and held! All set right? Nope.still need upper and lower fan shroud to use AC below about 40 MPH for air flow to keep the HI pressure side low enough to not hurt the system I was told. Replaced AC condenser coil ( it was MIA from schlock wreck repair and resell lot) belt on Comp. Hope this helps somebody save their nerves.Ġ3 savana, new to me for 5 mos. Could be the reason for the noise in the exhaust. I can only guess when the Cats failed they were plugging up the exhaust and causing the van to chug and die out. Muffler appears good and van does have great power. Had both Cats removed for"inspection" and was surprised when there was not one ounce of catalyst in either one. Worked for me).įast forward a year and I find out part of my problem. I did replace the crank sensor.( If this is done and the bushing in the timing cover comes out with the bolt try gluing it back in there with silicone. Gave up and took it to the dealer and they gave me heart failure with their "quote". Based on past history with the 5.7L Vortex I went after the intake gaskets. It ran fine on the trip but once home i seemed to get rough and have a miss. I took a trip with my van after replacing radiator, ECM fuel pump and tuning it up. I see the last entry was a while ago but maybe I can help someone who is searching this thread. ![]() haven't had THAT problem since the connector was replaced. The wire in that area would loose contact when it got hot and top the pump from running. The dealer found that the connector was heated up in one spot and melted. WHY? Because in my diagnostic steps I found out to get the van to restart I needed to unplug that connector and plug it back in and the vn would crank. They replaced the wiring connector down at the front of the fuel tank belly pan. After unsuccessfully trying to find issue i sent it to local dealer. Van would run good and then not restart when cut off and restarted. So i replaced it and was ok, or so I thought. Past experiences have taught me that the only good fuel pump is from the OEM. I have what most may call an "extensive" background in anything that runs. It has 180K on it and the pump was replaced once in that time. It turned out to be the fuel pump, or so I thought. It was purchased as a project van because it would run sometimes and sometimes not. I am new but have also suffered with a "different running" 99 Savana 5.7L Vortex conversion Van.
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